I write this with the sound of Diwali firecrackers going off all over the town. I am in Tirupati, in the southern Indian state of Andhra Pradesh. Tomorrow is a big Diwali festival here at the ISKCON temple There will be the ceremonial burning of a 40-feet high image of the demon king Narakasura who was killed on this day by Lord Krishna and His wife Satyabhama. There will also be an hour-long firework show. About 10,000 people are expected.
The pastime of Bhaumasura – the demon with a thousand arms – was also connected to this period of the year. Local tradition has it (!) that one of the seven defensive walls of Bhaumasura was made of firecrackers so they recreate that too!
I came back from Ahovalam, the place of Lord Narasimha, last night. I had a good local guide. Quite a trek through real jungle up the hills with the booming sounds of huge monkeys and tropical birds. A bit disconcerting that there are bears and cheetahs in the jungle too. But it was very rewarding to take darshan of many of the nine forms of Narasimhadeva. Many of them are in caves where previously devotees and yogis used to meditate. Apart from the jungle sounds the place is very tranquil and it was very easy to think of God there.
Half way up one hill you have to walk over a bridge cut out of the cliff face. There is a waterfall crashing onto the path and a deep gorge below you. So you have to walk right through the waterfall. Scary. Thing is, you are so hot and sweaty by the time you get to that point that some cold mountain water is just what you need. Some of the Deities of Sri Narasimha are in places so inaccessible that they don’t receive daily worship any more. The local tribal Chenchu who live in the jungle come to wash the temple floors and draw rice flour patterns on the wet stone. They light up oil candles to illuminate the Deities. But it is the brahmanas who come to bathe the Deities and perform the ritualistic worship on a limited, regular basis. They all have the front part of their heads shaved and have huge U-shaped white tilak with a yellow line inside to represent the Goddess. This they wear on their foreheads and in 11 other positions on their chest, arms and neck according to the custom of their sampradaya. They were grateful to see that we’d taken the trouble – albeit puffing and wheezing – to come and see their Lords, and they responded by giving us garlands of tulasi leaves and red kumkum. As they waved the camphor flame in front of the Deity they would introduce us to the Deity and also point out His special features.
I saw a Muslim couple making the trek up the hill. She was dressed in the traditional black full veil. He looked a little sheepish that we’d noticed them. Apparently, Lord Narasimha is well known and worshipped around here by childless couples who don’t remain childless for much longer. Lord Nrsimha is very kind in a variety of ways.
