
There’s probably nothing worse than having to listen to someone tell you about their holidays. How nice it was, how great the food was, and what a great time was had by all. You should have been there, they’ll say, knowing full well that you couldn’t. ‘You would have had a great time.’ Yes, I suppose I would have, you think.
But since both Martin and Jereme – my two regular readers – asked me to say something about my recent trip to Italy, I will. If you don’t want to read on – please click away now.
I’m not a man who chooses to go on solitary holidays. So there were 31 of us altogether. It was this years congregational retreat – the one we normally have at the Buckland Hall in Wales. We thought we’d try something different this year and so chose to hold the event at Villa Vrindavan in the Tuscan countryside just a 20-minute bus-ride outside Florence.
So here begin my gushing superlatives. I apologise, but I can’t help it. The place, the views, the weather, the food, the sights, the peacocks, the art, the friendly and superbly hospitable devotees – and did I mention the food?
Villa Vrindavan is a very appropriately named 16th century villa, all 120 rooms and 200 acres built and fashioned for pleasure and prestige by the powerful Machiavelli, he of The Prince fame. By 1979, when the devotees took it over to use as a monastery, it was quite run down and in sore need of some loving care – and quite a few million Italian lira.
But the Hare Krishna movement was moving quite rapidly through Italy at that time. A national festival tour showcasing Vedic art, drama, philosophy and music, complete with feasting Italian style; almost nightly regional television publicity; and a lively national radio station Radio Krishna Centrale, all contributed to widespread public appeal and support. The necessary funds were raised and by 1984 a grand installation of Radha Krishna deities took place.
That was all of 25 years ago and, as a much younger man, I made the train journey with 200 other Vaishnavas across Europe to be part of the thousand-strong gathering and prana pratistha festival. Although the grand canvas marquee where that event took place is now tattered in places, the rest of the estate is just as magnificent as it ever was.
Now, looking after a palatial stately home built in the late 1500s, a place where even the great Leonardo da Vinci is said to have painted, is a tough job for anyone, let alone a group of unworldly Krishna devotees. But the special quality of devotees is their bhakti, their devotional service to Krishna, and that, being avowedly practical, turns philosophy into action. Devotees will labour at the painstaking restoration of a mediaeval building not because they love architecture – but because they love Krishna. And because they love Krishna they’ll do it for free.
The villa attracted many Vaishnava painters who formed an academy for producing the oil paintings for Srila Prabhupada’s Srimad Bhagavatam and Caitanya Caritamrita. Nearby Florence is, of course, the home of some of the most famous Italian artists of the Renaissance and the town is thus an inspiration to any artist, and particularly those who paint with a religious theme.
Now the devotees are busy promoting the place as a venue for selected yoga groups and a place for international Vaishnavas to go on retreat. They’ve got everything on their side. The terrace views of the surrounding hills, dotted with olive trees and vineyards, is pure holiday brochure stuff. And although I’m no expert, I would say that their home-cooking comes direct from heaven. Generous portions of fresh crusty bread, spinach-stuffed ravioli, olives with pasta, and hot pizza with specially thin crust all convinced our British contingent that we’d come to the right place this year!

But didn’t I say this was our annual spiritual retreat? Doesn’t all this enjoyment get in the way of spiritual pursuits? Well, not really. All the food is offered to Krishna of course, making it sanctified, and each day begins with four hours of healthy meditation, kirtan, philosophy readings, class and discussion – all before breakfast. What a combination. I’ll say more about what we got up to after breakfast tomorrow.
You can have a look at Villa Vrindavan by going to: http://www.villavrindavana.net/ or by clicking RIGHT HERE